Damascus, the capital of Syria, presents a complex and contradictory picture in the aftermath of the revolution that toppled Bashar al-Assad’s regime. Compared to other cities that have undergone similar upheavals, Damascus appears relatively calm on the surface. Instead of the chaotic scenes of masked gunmen and armed militias patrolling the streets, which are common in post-revolutionary settings, the city has a sense of controlled order. Checkpoints are present at the entrances and exits of the city, but the militias, particularly those linked to Hayat Tahrir al-Sham (HTS), which played a key role in the takeover, are largely keeping a low profile. Many of these fighters have now been integrated into the newly formed General Security force, donning matching black uniforms and fatigues as they work to maintain stability.
For someone like myself, who has spent most of the conflict in the west and north of Syria with rebel forces and demonstrators, returning to Damascus is a mix of discovery and painful confirmation. Prior to 2011, I had only made a couple of brief visits to the city, and once the uprising began, I was either embedded with rebel groups or based in areas outside government control. As someone on the regime’s wanted list, traveling to government-held areas was impossible for much of the war. Now, upon visiting Damascus, I am struck by the stark contrast between the city’s resilience and the devastating scars of conflict. Entire suburban neighborhoods have been reduced to rubble, a grim reminder of the brutal campaigns carried out by Assad’s forces with Russian military support. The city feels like a place caught between looking toward the future and grappling with the trauma of its recent past. Many residents are trying to move on, but the ruins of their homes and livelihoods serve as a constant reminder of what has been lost.
One of the most striking aspects of Damascus today is the presence of the General Security force, which now oversees much of the city’s security. During a visit to the Umayyad Square, I had the opportunity to meet Abdulrahman Dabbagh, the man in charge of security in the capital. Dabbagh is a youthful figure and the cousin of Syria’s new president, Ahmed al-Sharaa. He spoke with determination about the need for justice and accountability in post-Assad Syria. “Syrians have every right to see justice served for those who caused them harm during the reign of this now-defunct regime,” he said. Dabbagh emphasized that while efforts are underway to track down senior officials of the former regime, the process is meticulous and involves careful planning and research. He also made it clear that not all identified individuals are immediately acted upon, as the new government waits for official orders before making arrests. His words reflect a broader sentiment among Syrians: the desire to see those responsible for the country’s suffering held accountable.
The scars of the Assad regime’s rule run deep, and few families have been untouched by its brutality. Bariya, a 63-year-old woman, is one of countless Syrians who endured unimaginable suffering at the hands of the regime. She was detained for 100 days on charges of cooking food for demonstrators and spying on regime checkpoints in the city of Homs. Her story is a harrowing testament to the regime’s relentless program of detentions, torture, and repression. Bariya recalls the endless torture sessions that began each evening, the cries of male prisoners echoing through the corridors, and the unbearable pain of hearing her own husband’s voice among them. Despite her ordeal, she remains afraid of the regime’s linger
