1:41 pm - February 12, 2025
The State of American Fashion: Insights from New York Fashion Week
New York Fashion Week has long served as a barometer for the state of American fashion, and this season’s events provided a compelling snapshot of the industry’s current trajectory. As the week drew to a close, it became clear that American fashion is navigating a period of significant change, marked by major debuts, notable absences, and a renewed focus on wearability. Brands like Calvin Klein and Thom Browne showcased their latest collections, but the week was also defined by the departure of Creative Directors at Proenza Schouler, Area, and Helmut Lang, among others, as well as the absence of heritage brands like Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren. While some labels opted to show overseas or in other cities—like Willy Chavarria in Paris and Bode in New Orleans—others remained on the schedule, albeit with a more pared-down approach. This season, the industry’s reshuffling was palpable, leaving many to wonder what the future holds for American fashion.
Despite the scaled-back schedule, New York Fashion Week delivered its signature doses of theatricality and creativity. Marc Jacobs presented an off-schedule collection featuring doll-like models in exaggerated silhouettes, while Christian Siriano debuted automotive-inspired gowns and flashy clubwear that left a lasting impression. Yet, the overall tone of the week leaned toward understated, wearable designs. Eckhaus Latta’s “anti-snobbish” collection, which included leather bombers, cargo pants, and asymmetrical dresses, epitomized this shift, as did Veronica Leoni’s highly anticipated first collection for Calvin Klein. Leoni’s sleek, modern take on business casual attire, characterized by wide tailoring and billowing silk, marked a bold new chapter for the iconic brand. Backstage, she emphasized her desire to explore beauty in its purest form, drawing inspiration from the archives without succumbing to nostalgia. Her vision was a clear call to return to work, both literally and metaphorically, for a brand that has long defined American fashion.
The week also saw the return of several high-profile figures to the New York fashion scene. Calvin Klein’s 82-year-old founder was in attendance at his namesake label’s comeback show, alongside past and present models like Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, FKA Twigs, and Kendall Jenner, who walked the runway in a striking ankle-length pinstripe coat dress. Elsewhere, celebrities like Ella Emhoff, Dove Cameron, and Keke Palmer made appearances at shows for Collina Strada, Brandon Maxwell, and Sergio Hudson, underscoring the enduring allure of New York Fashion Week as a cultural and social event. Yet, amidst the glamour, designers used the platform to address the challenges facing the industry. Sergio Hudson, for instance, spoke candidly about the lack of support for American designers, lamenting the shift in focus toward European fashion weeks. “There’s a lot of great designers here, and I just feel like they’re being ignored,” he said backstage before his show. His comments echoed the sentiments of many in the industry, who are working tirelessly to maintain their independence in an increasingly competitive landscape.
The resilience of American fashion was a recurring theme throughout the week. Christopher John Rogers made a triumphant return to the New York schedule after a five-year hiatus, presenting a vibrant collection of color-blocked dresses and tasseled button-downs that celebrated joy and connection. “We haven’t been immune to the recent challenges of the industry,” he noted in the show notes, “but we are grateful to be here now presenting this body of work.” Similarly, Elena Velez, whose runway show drew inspiration from mermaid and siren archetypes, described fashion as a “longevity game” that requires relentless dedication and creativity. Her dramatic presentations and unconventional partnerships, including one with OnlyFans, have helped her carve out a unique niche in the industry. “There’s no plan b—I’ll sink with my ship,” she declared, embodying the determination that defines so many American designers.
Politics also loomed large over the week’s proceedings, as designers grappled with the implications of a turbulent new political administration. The budding US-China trade war and new anti-DEI policies have created uncertainty for an industry that has long struggled to achieve equity and inclusivity. Yet, in the face of these challenges, many designers chose to emphasize community and unity. Christian Siriano, whose runway show celebrated beauty in all its forms, called for the industry to continue showcasing diversity and culture. “We need fantasy. We need dreams. We need to show all of the colors and cultures that are here, especially in New York,” he said backstage. His words were echoed by Prabal Gurung, who used his collection to explore themes of intimacy and connection in uncertain times. “I refuse to give in to cynicism,” he said. “I always feel like in confusing, dystopian times, what we’re looking for is connection.”
As the week drew to a close, it was clear that American fashion remains a resilient and deeply personal art form. From Veronica Leoni’s fresh take on Calvin Klein to the matriarchal vision of Collina Strada, the collections on display were a testament to the creativity and determination of American designers. Even as the industry faces significant challenges, the voices of those who define it—designers like Sergio Hudson, Prabal Gurung, and Elena Velez—offer a powerful reminder of what American fashion stands for: independence, storytelling, and an unyielding optimism. As Velez put it, “It is a very American brand—as the daughter of an immigrant who came to the States—and then also, just the attitude with which we all design. It’s very scrappy and intrepid and naively optimistic, in a sense. And I just think that New York needs a voice like ours.” In the end, that voice—raw, resilient, and deeply human—is what will carry American fashion forward, no matter what the future holds.