Paris Fashion Week is a celebration of creativity, exclusivity, and the artistry of haute couture, a realm accessible to only a select few due to its astronomical price tags and strict criteria set by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. Following men’s fashion week, where ready-to-wear designs dominate, the haute couture shows in Paris serve a different purpose altogether. These bespoke creations are not meant for everyday wear; instead, they are experimental masterpieces that highlight exceptional craftsmanship. Clients typically order these pieces directly, undergoing private fittings to ensure a flawless fit. The designs are often pushing boundaries, blending tradition with innovation, and showcasing the unparalleled savoir-faire of the world’s most renowned fashion houses.
This season, the week was filled with milestones and celebrations. Chanel marked an extraordinary 110 years in haute couture with a show at the Grand Palais. The runway featured a striking crossing C formed by two monumental staircases, paying homage to the house’s iconic double-C logo. The collection, designed by Chanel’s studio as they awaited the arrival of new creative director Matthieu Blazy, offered a fresh take on the brand’s classic codes. Cropped skirt-suits in richly embroidered tweeds, soft silk shirt dresses, and capes with pussy-bow fastenings effortlessly merged timeless elegance with modern sensibility. Each piece told a story of tradition reimagined for the contemporary woman.
Another highlight was Giorgio Armani’s celebration of 20 years of his couture line, Armani Privé. Titled “Lumières,” the collection explored themes of light and shimmer, reflecting the designer’s fascination with the interplay of texture and luminosity. Held at the newly acquired Palazzo Armani, a lavish private mansion adorned with gilded moldings and a marble staircase, the show featured 94 looks that revisited iconic moments from Armani’s career. Beaded suits, sleek peplums, and crystal-encrusted evening gowns dazzled on the runway, while 1920s-inspired headpieces added a touch of vintage glamour. Armani’s attention to detail was once again evident, proving that, as he often says, “the devil is in the details.”
Valentino’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, brought a unique perspective to the week with his first couture collection for the Italian house. Staged at the Palais Brongniart, Paris’s former stock exchange, the show was a nod to early haute couture traditions, with each look numbered as models once carried cards with their look numbers. The collection was a mesmerizing blend of genres and epochs, featuring Harlequin crinoline dresses, moiré Ottoman pants, and ruffled collars that evoked the Ancien Régime. Michele’s inspiration ranged from Stanley Kubrick’s “Barry Lyndon” to Virginia Woolf’s “Orlando,” with a recurring theme of lists that served as both a creative and literal motif. A giant screen behind the runway displayed unconnected words like “Sigmund Freud” and “Bloody Mary,” adding an enigmatic touch to the proceedings.
Dior’s show at the Musée Rodin was a star-studded event, with front-row guests including Pamela Anderson, Venus Williams, and Jenna Ortega. The collection, designed by creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, explored the transition from childhood to adulthood through a series of looks that combined innocence with sophistication. Crinoline styles in raffia and lace, embroidered with butterflies and dragonflies, gave the impression of wearable gardens, while trapeze silhouettes introduced by Yves Saint Laurent in 1958 made a modern comeback. Floral arrangements woven into hair and fabric added a touch of whimsy, reminiscent of Alice in Wonderland. Chiuri’s vision of transformation was both poetic and powerful, encapsulating the essence of haute couture as a medium for storytelling.
Schiaparelli offered a contrasting vision of femininity with a collection that celebrated the art of corsetry and the hourglass silhouette. Designer Daniel Roseberry drew inspiration from haute couture pioneer Charles Frederick Worth, aiming to create something new by revisiting the old. Kendall Jenner stunned in a dramatic corseted nude gown adorned with Chinoiserie embroidery, while Alex Consani, the first transgender Model of the Year, wore a floor-skimming feathered coat. Roseberry’s collection was a testament to fashion’s enduring love affair with archival pieces and the resurgence of vintage as a luxury status symbol. Together, these designers showcased the magic of haute couture, blending history with innovation and proving that, in this rarefied world, creativity knows no bounds.
