The Art of Orange Chicken: A Taste of Nostalgia and Connection
The orange chicken at Panda Inn in Pasadena is no ordinary dish. Unlike the version that sits patiently on the steam tables of Panda Express locations worldwide, this iteration is made to order. It arrives at your table glistening and craggy, tossed with whole dried chiles, scallions, and a delicate sprinkle of orange zest. Served on a sleek blue stoneware plate, it not only tastes better but feels like a more elevated experience. The combination of sticky sweetness, tangy acidity, and a hint of heat is nothing short of habit-forming.
For many, this dish evokes memories of home and family. It reminds me of my parents’ efforts to elevate takeout nights by using cloth napkins, silverware, and serving plates. While I once found this ritual quirky, I now see it as a heartfelt gesture—an attempt to transform a ordinary meal into something special. Orange chicken, in all its glory, has a way of bridging the gap between casual and luxurious, comfort and sophistication.
The Birth of a Legacy: Panda Inn and the Roots of Panda Express
Panda Inn, the Pasadena restaurant that eventually gave rise to Panda Express, opened its doors in 1973. Founded by the Cherng family, it quickly became a beloved neighborhood spot, offering a blend of traditional Chinese dishes with a touch of innovation. Early menus featured items like bone-in tangerine-peel chicken, sizzling beef hot plates, and a “Chinese Pasta” section dedicated to noodle dishes. It was a place where families gathered, where locals celebrated special occasions, and where developers saw potential for something bigger.
That potential led to the creation of Panda Express in the early 1980s, as part of the Glendale Galleria mall expansion. The restaurant’s orange chicken, developed in 1987, became its crown jewel. While the exact origins of the dish are debated—whether it was a natural evolution of the tangerine-peel chicken or the brainchild of Chef Andy Kao—it undeniably changed the fast-food landscape. It embedded the sweet, crowd-pleasing flavor of American Chinese cuisine into the global consciousness, catapulting the Cherng family’s small business into a culinary empire.
Today, the Cherng family’s holdings include Panda Express, Uncle Tetsu, Hibachi-San, and more, with a combined net worth exceeding $3 billion. Yet, Panda Inn remains a cornerstone of their legacy, a reminder of the humble beginnings that fueled their success.
A Renovation and a Renewed Vision
In recent years, Panda Inn underwent a major renovation, transforming its Pasadena location into a sprawling, glamorous space. The dining room, with its high vaulted ceilings, wood-paneled walls, and lush violet orchids, exudes a warm, welcoming vibe that feels both clubby and homey. On any given night, the restaurant buzzes with life—families celebrating birthdays, couples enjoying intimate meals, and solo diners like an impeccably dressed man in his 70s savoring a multicourse meal.
The menu reflects the same blend of tradition and innovation that defined Panda Inn from the start. While orange chicken remains a star, the restaurant has expanded its offerings to include Taiwanese popcorn chicken, braised beef on rice, and even sushi. These additions are a nod to the diverse culinary experiences of the Cherng family, particularly Ming-Tsai Cherng, who once worked in Yokohama’s Chinatown and Taipei’s Grand Hotel before bringing his vision to America.
Panda Inn is more than just a restaurant; it’s a celebration of the American dream. The newly designed menu features a photo of Ming-Tsai Cherng, with a story that describes the restaurant as “a place that embodies the pursuit of a better life for all.” While this narrative may feel overly simplistic in a world fraught with challenges, it resonates deeply with the families and individuals who fill the dining room every night.
A Menu That Tells a Story
Panda Inn’s menu is a testament to the family’s journey, blending classic dishes with modern twists. Sushi, for instance, is a surprisingly delightful addition, born from the fusion of Chinese and Japanese flavors. The honey walnut shrimp roll, a playful interpretation of a Panda Inn staple, is a testament to the restaurant’s willingness to experiment. Similarly, the Taiwanese popcorn chicken and braised beef on rice reflect the family’s roots in Taiwan, where Ming-Tsai Cherng once cooked for guests at the Grand Hotel.
While the menu tells a story, it’s not just about the food—it’s about the people. On any given night, you’ll see families gathered around lazy susans, laughing as they spin the tray to reach their favorite dishes. At its core, Panda Inn is about connection—connecting past and present, tradition and innovation, and people across generations and cultures.
The Emotional Connection: Food as Memory
For many of us, food is more than just fuel; it’s a repository of memories and emotions. Orange chicken, in particular, holds a special place in the hearts of Panda Inn’s patrons. For me, it evokes memories of sweet-and-sour pork from a long-closed Chinese restaurant in suburban London, a dish my parents once tried to recreate for my birthday. That meal, while imperfect, was a gesture of love during a time of upheaval.
The same emotional resonance applies to Panda Inn’s orange chicken. It’s a dish that’s deeply personal, tied to our own stories of family, migration, and belonging. On any given night, nearly every table has an order of orange chicken, a testament to its universal appeal. It’s not just a meal; it’s a connection to our collective past, a reminder of the comfort and joy that food can bring.
As I reflect on Panda Inn and its iconic orange chicken, I’m reminded that food is never just food. It’s a bridge between cultures, a link to our memories, and a celebration of the stories that make us who we are. Whether you’re a die-hard Panda Express fan or someone just discovering the magic of orange chicken, Panda Inn offers more than a meal. It offers a chance to taste history, tradition, and the enduring promise of the American dream.
