Every Thursday, our Money blog team sits down with chefs from across the UK to uncover their secrets for affordable, delicious meals and share their culinary expertise. This week, we have the pleasure of chatting with George Livesey, the head chef of the Michelin-starred restaurant Bulrush in Bristol. Known for his creative approach to food and commitment to using seasonal, locally-sourced ingredients, George shares his favorite budget-friendly hacks, restaurant recommendations, and insights into the culinary world.
When it comes to affordable eating at home, George swears by legumes as his go-to ingredient. He emphasizes that they are often overlooked despite being cheap, versatile, and packed with flavor. One of his simplest and most satisfying meals is a dish made with butter beans. For a quick snack, he tosses cooked butter beans with olive oil and chopped red onions. However, for those looking to elevate their meal, he recommends a mock cassoulet, a rustic French-inspired dish. To make it, he suggests sautéing diced onions, celery, and garlic in a heavy pan, then adding smoked bacon, chorizo, and confit duck leg (or chicken as a substitute). After browning the ingredients, he adds haricot beans, stock, and a pinch of spices like paprika. The dish is then baked in the oven for 45 minutes at 170°C, finished with toasted breadcrumbs and fresh parsley. While it’s not a traditional cassoulet, it’s a hearty and flavorful mid-week meal that’s perfect for feeding multiple people.
For a special dining experience, George recommends Jordnær in Copenhagen, a restaurant that left an indelible mark on him. Despite its high price tag, he considers it one of the best value-for-money dining experiences he’s ever had, citing its exceptional food, hospitality, and consistency. However, George notes that many diners, especially those accustomed to high-end restaurants in cities like London, often arrive at Bulrush with preconceived notions of what a Michelin-starred restaurant should be. He wants to challenge these expectations by offering a cozy, relaxed atmosphere where guests can enjoy their meals at a leisurely pace. George compares dining at different restaurants to watching different theater productions—each is unique and should be appreciated for its individuality. He wishes more diners would trust the process and embrace the distinct character of smaller, neighborhood restaurants like his own.
At Bulrush, George and his team have found ways to cut costs without compromising on quality. One of their secrets is focusing on overlooked ingredients and less expensive cuts of meat. For example, they slow-cook lamb belly, which is often underutilized, and serve it as one of their signature dishes. This approach not only reduces waste but also highlights the potential of humble ingredients to create something truly delicious. George’s creativity extends to his use of budget-friendly substitutes. His favorite is pork jowl, which he praises for its versatility. Whether roasted, cured to make a homemade ham, or transformed into guanciale for a rich carbonara, pork jowl offers endless possibilities at a fraction of the cost of more conventional cuts.
When asked about his culinary heroes, George names Albert Roux, the legendary French-born British chef who revolutionized the UK’s gastronomic scene. George had the opportunity to train under Albert Roux through the Academy of Culinary Arts’ specialized chef course, and he credits the Roux family with shaping the careers of some of the UK’s most celebrated chefs, including Marco Pierre White, Gordon Ramsay, and Marcus Wareing. For aspiring chefs, George offers a piece of advice: take the time to choose the right restaurant to work in, and stay there long enough to absorb as much knowledge as possible. He believes that understanding how a successful restaurant operates is invaluable for building a strong foundation in the culinary world.
Among his favorite cookbooks, George often references Noma: Time and Place by René Redzepi. This book not only introduced him to the principles of Nordic cuisine but also inspired him to explore foraging and seasonal cooking. Many of the ingredients featured in the book can be found in the UK, and this discovery shaped the food philosophy at Bulrush. George’s favorite ingredient is shio koji, a fermented Japanese seasoning made from rice, salt, and koji (a type of fungus). He loves how shio koji can be combined with seasonal ingredients to add depth and umami, whether it’s used to tenderize meats or make flavorful glazes with a splash of yuzu juice. This versatile ingredient is a testament to George’s passion for creativity and innovation in the kitchen.
